Three Weeks Down

Typed on the 16th of June in the afternoon.

So, it’s been a while. And not much has been happening, therefore this post will be a jack of all trades. In the days since the last post I’ve been busy and not busy at all.

Work has been a complete bore. While I’m at work I feel like I might as well be at home because I’m not doing anything worthwhile, it’s been very frustrating. Just today the director returned and I talked with her for a while. Apparently I’ll be very busy once there are more funds for the child rights project. In July. So I’m trying to figure out my plan of action for the next two weeks. She said that next Monday one of the sub-counties has something going on and maybe I’ll go check it out. And next Wednesday ActionAid, the partner for the women’s empowerment project, is coming in to do training so I might sit in on that as well. Two days in one week!! And there’s a workshop tomorrow put on by two Brits so I may try to get into that as well.

I talked to Nadja a bit and I might fill out the week by visiting the orphanage she works at. That or I’ll try to meet with Monica’s friend who works with former LRA abductees. Either one would be a nice change of pace and get me a little more involved in the community, which is good. The other thing I was thinking was to use the downtime to plan some travel and figure out what to do.

In the meantime, I’ve now gone to four of the five restaurants in town. The passed three nights have seen me dine with a number of guests in different restaurants, so it’s nice. The first one, the night I got here and another time since then, was Hotel Aanya, an Indian restaurant that has a decent Chinese menu. Monday was Carwash, which is an Indian restaurant and its namesake. Last night was PanAfric, a more traditional spot. And I just got back from Lillian Towers, which is the fancy hotel/restaurant in town. I now have however many weeks to go to Whiskers, the last one standing.

Last week Erik left for a week’s leave to Kisoro (and Lake Bunyonyi, swoooon). Tomorrow Annett and Martin leave for a month on their honeymoon to Madagascar and the Comoros. The next day Monica heads to Kigali for a ded meeting, and she’ll be dropping Nadja in Kampala on the way. So all this disperal has reinvigerated my search for local travel, and I was thinking of maybe going to Gulu during the week next week since I have free days, but apparently Alison was thinking about heading over there this weekend and I might just follow for some company. I’d love to see Gulu sooner rather than later, but the IC office will be closed, so I’ll have to make a return. However! I could easily make this return on my way to or from the northeast, and I’m hoping to see Arua or one of the other towns in that corner of the country.

I went to the town market for the first time on Sunday! That was quite interesting. Lira isn’t big enough to say it was bustling, but it’s very much how I imagined it: tiny booths of all sorts of produce with a patchwork of cloth for a roof over an open-air market. I’m also learning Luo! Months ago Heather gave me a Luo-English dictionary and a pdf of Luo essentials, so I’ve been digesting it for a few days and bouncing words off of my colleagues at work. It’s actually a really, really simple language but I need to concentrate to remember all of the vocabulary. Other than that, just holding down the fort around these parts. Hopefully the next update will be more interesting, we’ll see.

Lira, from A to “Zed.”

Typed on the morning of the 9th of June at Sankofa Internet Cafe

Today’s Hero’s Day, so I’m enjoying my day off at the cafe and typing up a blog!  Anyways, yesterday was my second day of work and I did very much the same thing. I sat for a bit.  Took tea. Sat some more.  But Steven and I were talking and we’re trying to think of ways to be more proactive.  I also asked for proposals of the projects so I read a lot about NACWOLA’s field projects in Lira.  Now hopefully I can go out there? Called it a day early again, and I went into town to inquire about some portable modems.  Stopping here at Sankofa for a couple hours a day will cost me about 180,000 Shillings, plus I use my phone to call back home some.  Having a modem would cost more but I’d have internet more often and maybe cut down on phonecalls as well.  So later today I’ll go take another look and probably get one.  Yay!

Yesterday evening I went with Erik, Annett and Martin and we played badminton for about an hour and a half with some bad shuttlecocks (stupid other English).  It was fun though! And it was nice to get a little bit of sport in as well.  From there, we went to a party to see off some mizungus that were leaving Lira.  It was quite a gathering of people at the International Lifeline Fund.  I got to meet a lot of people!  The farewell was for Hoi, a Vietnamese-Australian who now lives in the U.S. and is going back to his pregnant wife after spending some time with ILF and Marco, an Italian who was moving to Kampala – they were also welcoming Amandine, a Frenchwomen who has lived in Uganda for eight years and is now the director of ILF.  Also also, I met an American named Alison and guess what – she was in Masaka with FSD when Heidi was in Jinja and they know each other – small world I guess.  Also small world, ILF is working with Invisible Children on a project?!

So!  After meeting all of these people and eating a bit of dinner, some music started playing and I got to just hang out with everyone.  I got to know everyone and heard a lot of fun stories.  One thing I did learn, speaking with an Australian, a Brit, and three Germans who learned British English, is that I will never not be surprised to hear the letter Z pronounced “zed.”  Also I was forced to dance a few times, and I don’t think dancing will ever not be awkward for me.  Ever.  Anyways, enough talk! Enjoy some pictures.

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Slow Day

Typed the night of the 7th of June

Today, was more of an experience. I woke up early and got cleaned up before my first big day at NACWOLA’s Lira Office. Left, and took a long ride on the back of a bicycle until I finally made it. Met up with Geoffrey (one of the staff whom I had met on Sunday) and Grace, the two staff members, and an intern named Stephen from a university in Kampala.

And that was it. We all sat around for about an hour before taking some tea. Then Geoffrey left to take care of some business. Then Grace, Stephen and I sat for a good 2-2.5 hours. Occasionally conversing, occasionally reading things, not doing much of anything. Around 1 Geoffrey called and said we could go home.

That was my first day at work.

SO! I decided to use the free time and try walking home. I knew it took 20 minutes to get home from Sankofa (the internet cafe) so I walked and walked and walked and I made it to the cafe in just over an hour. Stopped in, sent a few e-mails and had some ice cream (it was hoooooot in the afternoon), and then made my way around the outskirts of town, stopping at a few shops. I picked up some cookies and a few notebooks before hiking back home and playing Age of Empires.

Put in a short call to my parents before making my way back to Sankofa for a little bit (trying to register with the US Embassy, but it’s taking far too long on bad internet) before wandering back in the dark until I made it home for a small dinner. After dinner we hung out a bit before calling it a night.

A Relaxing Day

So, yesterday and today have been kind of strange and partially uneventful. Yesterday was Martyr’s Day, a public holiday, so I relaxed a bit and spent some time online before Morris took me to see some sights (saw Mengo Palace, where the King of Buganda lives, but couldn’t get close; and the Qaddafi Mosque).  Today I came to the office to find a pretty empty place.  With the public holiday, there was some communication issues I think, as most of the office has headed to Entebbe for NACWOLA’s general assembly conference – a gathering of representatives from all of the different branches.  So I hung out at the office for a while.

Then Isma came!  You remember Isma.  He came to the office and asked if he could show me more of the area.  I ended up walking near and far to see where he used to go to primary school and the secondary school that he is in the middle of.  He’s unable to go back right now because he lacks enough funds for school fees, but he took me to see the campus anyways and I met his headmaster as well.  He made today a lot of fun and showed me even more of this huge, complex city.  He also taught me 2 words in Luganda, thereby doubling my vocabulary in the local language!

Tomorrow is still a little up in the air.  The ladies from Penn were (maybe) going to go rafting, so I talked to Morris about leaving for Lira on Sunday and he said that would be better.  It will give me more time to re-pack everything and prepare for a long trip north.  Team Penn is still figuring out what they’ll be doing, but it sounds like instead of rafting they are going to go sight-seeing in the city.  One the agenda might be the Baha’i Temple on the outskirts of town and maybe Makerere University, so I’m thinking about meeting up with them at some point.  Then the next day I’ll be on a very long bus ride up to Lira.  It looks like we’ve finally settled on accommodations though, and I’ll be staying in a house with a German woman and a Swiss woman.  Maybe I’ll practice my Deutsch. (Maybe not).

Another Day, Another Blogpost

Typed on the afternoon of the 2nd of June at the NACWOLA office.

The day’s been pretty relaxed so far today.  After getting up and making my long commute (about an hour and a half on two buses, on foot, and a boda-boda) I made it to work on time. Hung out with everyone a little while doing some things on the computer, then got ready to go. While I waited for other people to come before we could head out, I sat under the hut and listened to the marching band at the secondary school down the hill. They practiced for a couple of hours and it was nice listening to them for a bit. After a while Yudaya decided that it was taking too long and that she would take me without the others.

After buying some gifts and hiking a little ways, we took bodas up to a small house in a tightly packed neighborhood. Here I met Isma, a young man nearing the end of high school, and his mother. All of his other siblings were at school, but he welcomed me into their home and told me a lot about how NACWOLA had helped his family. Yudaya said that long ago she personally came here to help the mother wash everyday since her hands were too weak to do anything, and since then the mother has improved a lot. She still looked weak and didn’t say much while I was there. After talking about NACWOLA, Isma told me a lot about his history and Ugandan history as a whole – lo and behold he wants to teach secondary school history! After chatting with him for a while, I came back to the NACWOLA office as Aaron left to the ICC Conference (soooo jealous!) so I’m stealing his internet.

Photos from Work

Coinciding with the last post I did about work, here are some pictures from yesterday.  Enjoy! :)

It's reading time

Sudden rain!

And the next three are from the micro-finance meeting in the resource room.  There were so many women in there I had to take two pictures and there are still not in frame.

Arielle explaining the prices of the paper products

Emma (top), Sauda (middle), and another woman working on the paper products.

Needless to say, it was nice to see some of the work that NACWOLA is doing in its community of women.  Hopefully I’ll get to work on some projects like this in Lira!

First Workday

Typed on the 1st of June, right before I slept like a rock. And boy is it a long post:

Today was…. phew.  It had some really good times and some really not-good times. Let’s go chronologically, shall we?

I woke up a little later than anticipated, so I didn’t get to type up the blog before this one (it got typed in the afternoon, which delayed posting), but George and I headed out through the same criss-crossing path he took me to on Monday. Emerged, and took the longest and most confusing route I’ve ever taken to anywhere. Got on the same bus as before, but we took it all the way to the taxi park, which is the name of a giant field where all of the taxis are lined up with conductors (the aformentioned toll-men) trying to get you to board. We got off, left the bus park and hiked through the downtown, through a few shopping centers, and emerged at another bus park! Hopped on the right one and on we went until I got to my stop and then got confused as to where to go from there. Ended up taking a boda-boda up to the NACWOLA office where I finally showed up, a little late by my standards but just fine with local-time (which I’m getting used to).

I greeted the few that were there before meeting with Yudaya, the resident mom of the office. She sat me down and talked about what we were going to do for the day and explained the custom of never entering someone’s home empty-handed. Then she said we’d head out after she prepared tea for everyone else.

While she prepared tea (and did whatever else) I had enough time to talk with the girls (who had shown up while Yudaya and I were talking) and connect my computer to the internet. I got to talk to Kim and check my e-mail a little, glance over this blog, and chat with some friends in the office. Then it was time to take tea, so I had sugary milk-water, which looks like I added and poured and mixed things but still resembles something I can drink and like. Then Yudaya took me across the street to a little shop, where I bought some rice and sugar for the family I was visiting, and a lollipop for their kid. We walked a total of like ten steps before we got to the house, and it was the house of one of the girls I had met in passing the day before!

Sauda, a 21-year-old girl who is a NACWOLA child (meaning her mother is a member), welcomed me into her home and hung out with me. Her neice was not happy to see me but when I gave her a lollipop she was content with me being there (child bribery ftw). Sauda got her memory book, which is one of the cool things NACWOLA does, and told me all about her family and her history. The memory book was an idea started by NACWOLA years ago, giving women living with HIV/AIDS a chance to record their family history and personal history and leave it for their children. Sauda began to write her own despite her mother being alive, and she is still working on it. She read to me stories of who her mother is, where her family is from, how her father passed, how she liked school. Everything in the book was really interesting and touching, and it was nice to be welcomed into someone’s home. While there I also met her younger sister, Sharifa, and her mom and aunt both stopped by. After we finished going through the book, we watched some TV (it looked like a Ugandan soap opera followed by a short profile of a Spanish actress and then the news) before heading out. Sauda and I went back to NACWOLA for lunch.

When we got back, we hung out with people for a little while before Yudaya had me meet with Emma, a man a little younger than me. I don’t know what we were supposed to actually talk about, but he was filling out applications for university so I talked to him about that. He’s a go-getter, and he made fun of American schools for not starting until 5 years old (nursery starts at age 3 and is equivalent to our kindergarten). In the course of talking we also got to maybe one of my favorite conversations so far. 1. How can America keep a man from having more than one wife? B. But Akon says he has two wives. How does he live in the US? Ultimately, though, we talked about American versus Ugandan school systems until lunch, which Sauda helped prepare. During lunch I chatted with Danielle, a Penn grad, for a bit before it started POURING outside out of nowhere. Suddenly the room filled with everyone who had been outside and we carried on our conversations while it rained.

The original agenda for the Penn group was to meet with a group of women in a microfinance program. Due to the rain, the meeting came inside so I joined in and listened to a lot of good conversation. The thing the girls came to do was to help put together a program in which women can work to make paper out of papyrus and water hyacinth (both found in Lake Victoria) and then turn the paper into books and picture frames. The women who came today were in a microfinance program in which they have taken out a loan as a group (of 17) and they share the money to keep their businesses going. They talked a lot about the woes of loans and low capital, and shared some stories about their jobs and how microfinance does or doesn’t help. It was exactly the type of thing Tomomi (a professor at ASU) would have been interested in!

The meeting went long, but it was really interesting and fine by me. Afterwards I decided to try to walk to Ggaba Road (where the US Embassy is) to A. register with the embassy and II. see how far it was since boda-bodas are expensive and the bus dropped me off on this road. To address the former, I arrived at the back of the embassy and had to go around – which is a long road – and it was closed. To address the latter, it was pretty far, so I’m going to see if I can find a shorter route or suck it up and get there by boda.

That’s pretty much where the day got more and more annoying. I walked a bit passed the embassy to a gas station with hopes of getting on a bus. Several in a row were full, so I figured I’d walk and flag one down. Still full. After a while I just said screw it and walked, making sure I followed the general mass of taxis. After a long walk, and a few misreads of the buses, I found myself in the thick of downtown. This area was muddier and a little more sketchy, so I kept things close and my eyes open as I hopped between roads and through shopping centers (shopping centers that go through to the next street are called arcades, by the way). Eventually I found my way to the bus park that I should have been getting off at. But then I couldn’t find my way to the other bus park, despite getting (conflicting) directions from multiple passers by. Eventually, I made it and I hopped in, relieved to finally be on a bus and know where I was going.

Got to Wandegeya and found my way to the internet cafe where, imagine, I ran into Morris! We headed up and he scanned some things while I was told that the internet wasn’t working. So we were disparaged. They said it should be up soon, so we grabbed a quick bite to eat before returning…. to a closed internet cafe. Guess it didn’t come back? Morris pointed me towards one and I arrived only to find out that it was full. So I headed to one that I had seen in passing, and it didn’t have wi-fi, was also full, and was more ghetto than the others. I had to wait five minutes before I could hop on Windows 95 (or whatever was before XP) and try to get the internet to work. Glad I got to talk to people a little bit before calling it a very late night and navigating through the dark back home. All in all an okay day that started really cool and ran aground for a bit. I think I put in a lot of kilometers today, whatever those are.

NACWOLA!

Typed on the 1st of June in the afternoon at NACWOLA and late at night at home

Yesterday I started my first day at NACWOLA, kind of. Before that, though, I had an annoying day. Money is dumb.

I woke up and George took me through a different part of town on the way to Morris’ work. Once I got there, Morris was going to take me to exchange my dumb traveler’s checks for Shillings. We didn’t have too much time, so Morris said that we should take a boda-boda. I was nervous, but the tiny motorcycle prevailed and we rode it to the city center looking for a good international bank. Finally made it to Crane Bank and realized that I needed the receipt, no matter what (even though the one I usedin Detroit was fine without one and I know people who have used them in Africa without receipts). So we ran out of time, and I had to go to work but I’d come back later!

Morris took me to NACWOLA and dropped me off. First, the place is totally cute. Most African neighborhoods/places are arranged in little compounds with high fences and a big gate enclosing at least one building and a garden. Behind NACWOLA’s big green gate is the main building with three doors (the door to all of the staff’s main offices, the kitchen, and the resource room where the interns are). There’s a wide dirt area where cars are parked, and there’s a big hut with chairs and benches underneath it for shady relaxing, and on the far side is a big garden.

But enough about looks. I talked to Gloria, the receptionist/multi-tasker, and she told me to wait under the hut and gave me a newspaper to read (Museveni’s ratings are down, wah waah) before Lillian met with me and gave me a brief low-down about what I’ll be doing for the week. After that, she said to read over their pamphlets and meet everyone. So, I met all of the staff, some of the members and family, and most of the Americans. The staff are all really nice, and the members come by to help with basic things and are involved in projects. The Americans include a group of girls from Penn who are helping put together a project, but they’re only here for three weeks total, and a law student from Indiana that is researching international law here and in Kenya. After meeting everyone, we took tea (I ate rolls) and then I hung out with Aaron, the law student, for a while before leaving early to exchange money. But look! It’s picture time!

The main building

The hut!

The resource room, where I spent my free time

The main gate!

And that was a trip. The manager at the bank did not think my signature matched very well, and it took a lot of signatures and a lot of convincing before he would give me my money. But, after a long day at the bank, I headed to Wandegeya and hung out at the internet cafe there for a while, updating all of those lovely blogs you saw and doing other internet duties. I stayed out later than usual, until it got pretty dark in town. Then I headed to get dinner (my first and last meal of the day other than the roll) before heading home and calling it a night. I’m glad to finally be done with the whole money fiasco, and I’m excited to meet more people tomorrow and probably go into the community and meet some more NACWOLA family and children as well as all my new friends.

Jean Genie

On Tuesday, Kim and I went shopping.  I needed to get a lot of things purchased before I could leave on my trip, so we pushed a loaded cart around Target for about an hour and a half.  In the end, I have a weird new wardrobe that I didn’t think I’d be getting for a while, some important accessories for the journey, and a far lighter wallet.

I bought jeans.  This may not be a big deal to many (most, if not all) of you.  I have not owned jeans since I was around eight years old, I think.  A few months ago I tried some on but decided against it.  Working out in the field with limited luggage and probably even more limited washing opportunities, I thought jeans would be a good investment for this trip.  It’ll be interesting to see what my new wardrobe does for me.  Also denim feels kinda foreign to me.

In addition to that little endeavor, I expanded my two-shirt oxford collection and added a few plain Ts, which I very rarely wear.  And I bought Kim a shirt with one of the coolest designs I’ve ever run into.  The first time I ever saw it was at CB2.  In addition to looking cool, it’s got a really neat background.  It was a poster commissioned by the British Ministry of Information during the depression years immediately preceding WWII.  It was never published and was lost until a print came out in an auction recently.  (All of this is according to CB2, but I believe them because they also have unique one-of-a-kind maps and authentic Jain bowls that I want).  Anyways, Target commandeered the design and have a whole set of things that are awesome.

I should do some work, but I’ll post later about wedding things (we went to a tasting last night!) and trip things (ahhhh!!!).  The big news is that I leave in one week.  This next next week I’ll be over the Eastern seaboard of the US or Canada (not sure). Woah.

Dog Day Afternoon

Rounding out blog post #3 of my lunch break is a dog post.  It’s part sad and part happy, so bear with me.

On Saturday, Kim and I met Callista, the super-kind black dog that we really liked.  After talking with the foster family and making sure she was perfect for us (and boy was she!) we went home and called the rescue to set up a house-check and move forward with the adoption.  She said she’d give me a call in a few days and we could set everything up.  That night, Callista’s page on petfinder said “adoption pending.”  Whoo hoo, right?!

Days went by without a call.

I finally called the rescue and she gave me bad news and made me all mad news.  Apparently, someone else adopted her.  The rescue didn’t think that our work- and school-schedules worked well enough with Callista’s personality and a stay-at-home mom was interested and got her.  I honestly wouldn’t mind if we lost Callista to somebody else, but it’s the fact that the foster family said she did fine home alone for several hours (we specifically asked about our 8-hour workdays).  Plus, the foster family said we were the first ones to meet her, and that night it said her adoption was pending – we naturally thought that meant it was us.  And then someone else magically managed to contact, meet, and do a house-check before I even got a call-back.  Alas and alack.

SO! Kim and I talked to the rescue that we looked at for Thor (the first one we liked).  She has another dog named Zeus that we actually wanted before Thor – he was adopted and then returned because the family’s other animals didn’t get along with him.  He’s on his way back to the rescue and Kim and I are going to go meet him today and see how things go.  Maybe a Callista lost is a Zeus gained!  We’ll find out tonight, I guess.