Lira Town

Typed the night of the 6th of June at the new house in Senior Quarter, Lira Town.

So yesterday was a very up-and-down day. There were some tribulations and some rewards, but I think all’s well now.

First, in the morning when I tried to get home from a short stint on the internet, the bicyclist took me in the complete opposite direction until I finally just gave up and asked him to take me to the city center (I eventually got home just fine, but my wallet was a little lighter and my mood a little lower).

Spent the middle of the day at home. I read some while in a hammock in the compound before going inside and working my reflection for Gisela and some blogs (sorry there weren’t any pictures! I forgot to put them on my computer). Then a cleaning crew of three girls arrived and started scrubbing the place. This trip has been full of firsts that I did not expect. First time eating pasho, sure. First time paying someone to do my laundry, not expected (but thanks, Geoffrey!).

After a while I headed on a journey to actually find my way to the internet cafe. Found it without a problem, except the tiny problem in which I lost some airtime on the way :( Another downer on the day, but I had high spirits for the internet! Which, in line with other events, was dashed. I got to put up some quick updates and talk to Kim a tiny bit, but the internet kept cutting out and then ultimately my computer shut off and wouldn’t turn back on (it’s inexplicably working now, thank goodness).

On my defeated way home, I called Kim for a pick-me-up which was nice. I got home to a crew of Germans making Mexican food. You read it right. They were trying their hand at making some food from scratch, and all in all it turned out pretty good. Hopefully I’ll be able to lend a hand and try to learn something about cooking. The dinner was with Erik, Monika, Annett, and Martin, and it was a pretty good time. It’ll be nice to have a hopping house to come home to (George and Morris were routinely out until late, but then again so was I).

In the morning I’m bound to get lost on the way to NACWOLA, but hopefully I’ll make it on time. Word’s still out on whether or not it has internet and other such services, so I guess we’ll find out. Within the next few days I think I’ll get the hang of Liratown.

Kampala-sick?

Typed on the 6th of June in the afternoon

I don’t know if it’s the recent shift from Kampala to Lira or something else, but I’m feeling a new bout of homesickness. I sat out in a hammock reading for a bit to take my mind off things, and other than that the main distraction was a few moments ago when the rooster and one of the hens got into the house and I suddenly heard Monika stomping around and shouting “Aus!” I’ll be headed to the cafe this evening (to post this!) and in the meantime I’m working on my first reflection for my global studies program.

Touchdown in Lira

Typed on the 6th of June in the afternoon.

So, after a six-hour ride on a cramped bus, I am now in Lira. There was quite the hubbub at the bus park before getting on, but Morris and I boarded and found our way onto some seats. I found it odd that in a bustling park with buses lined up and people shouting trying to either board buses or sell goods, there was a man with a metal detector scanning people as they boarded the bus. Odd, but secure I guess. As we sat and prepared to leave, another bus employee walked up to me and told me to try not to fall asleep lest someone steal my laptop. As secure as that made me feel, we were soon on our way out of Kampala.

I took advantage of the free, no-sleeping time to get some reading done for my class (and never have I read so much about how sixteenth century ships were built and, somehow, I wasn’t that bored). The most interesting and fun thing about the buses was the random stops. We stopped once for fuel and people got out to strech, but all of the other stops were pretty much 2 or 3 minutes where the bus pulled over and a ton of people on the street would run over with fruit, vegetables, drinks, and meat and hold them up to the windows and try to sell them. It was kinda surreal to see such a…. drive-thru. But, anyways, we made it to Lira a little after sunset and got picked up by some German folk who took us out to dinner.

I’m currently staying with a girl named Monica and a guy named Erik, along with a Swiss girl named Nadia whom I have yet to meet (she’s in Kampala). Erik is moving out next week to his organization’s guest house. They occasionally have some other German friends staying over from other towns or districts like Lukas – who works at a school (I think) in a different district but was here last night.

The house is really big and has several bedrooms along with a common area and a big yard in the compound. There are two guards provided by a local orphanage that Nadia is working at and a small group of animals on the premise. In the passed couple of years I’ve gone from no pets to a fish to two rats and now two cats. And in this compound are four or five chickens, a goat, and a dog. All I have to say is that the rooster is loud.

Tomorrow I’ll be headed to the NACWOLA office, but I only kinda figured out how to get there so it’ll be an interesting trip in the morning. In the mean time, I’ve seen a few parts of this relatively small town and apparently there’s one good internet cafe (thank goodness). I’m also looking into the sensibility of getting a portable modem, because that’s what a lot of people have since there isn’t much in the ways of internet around here. We’ll see!

A Relaxing Day

So, yesterday and today have been kind of strange and partially uneventful. Yesterday was Martyr’s Day, a public holiday, so I relaxed a bit and spent some time online before Morris took me to see some sights (saw Mengo Palace, where the King of Buganda lives, but couldn’t get close; and the Qaddafi Mosque).  Today I came to the office to find a pretty empty place.  With the public holiday, there was some communication issues I think, as most of the office has headed to Entebbe for NACWOLA’s general assembly conference – a gathering of representatives from all of the different branches.  So I hung out at the office for a while.

Then Isma came!  You remember Isma.  He came to the office and asked if he could show me more of the area.  I ended up walking near and far to see where he used to go to primary school and the secondary school that he is in the middle of.  He’s unable to go back right now because he lacks enough funds for school fees, but he took me to see the campus anyways and I met his headmaster as well.  He made today a lot of fun and showed me even more of this huge, complex city.  He also taught me 2 words in Luganda, thereby doubling my vocabulary in the local language!

Tomorrow is still a little up in the air.  The ladies from Penn were (maybe) going to go rafting, so I talked to Morris about leaving for Lira on Sunday and he said that would be better.  It will give me more time to re-pack everything and prepare for a long trip north.  Team Penn is still figuring out what they’ll be doing, but it sounds like instead of rafting they are going to go sight-seeing in the city.  One the agenda might be the Baha’i Temple on the outskirts of town and maybe Makerere University, so I’m thinking about meeting up with them at some point.  Then the next day I’ll be on a very long bus ride up to Lira.  It looks like we’ve finally settled on accommodations though, and I’ll be staying in a house with a German woman and a Swiss woman.  Maybe I’ll practice my Deutsch. (Maybe not).

Another Day, Another Blogpost

Typed on the afternoon of the 2nd of June at the NACWOLA office.

The day’s been pretty relaxed so far today.  After getting up and making my long commute (about an hour and a half on two buses, on foot, and a boda-boda) I made it to work on time. Hung out with everyone a little while doing some things on the computer, then got ready to go. While I waited for other people to come before we could head out, I sat under the hut and listened to the marching band at the secondary school down the hill. They practiced for a couple of hours and it was nice listening to them for a bit. After a while Yudaya decided that it was taking too long and that she would take me without the others.

After buying some gifts and hiking a little ways, we took bodas up to a small house in a tightly packed neighborhood. Here I met Isma, a young man nearing the end of high school, and his mother. All of his other siblings were at school, but he welcomed me into their home and told me a lot about how NACWOLA had helped his family. Yudaya said that long ago she personally came here to help the mother wash everyday since her hands were too weak to do anything, and since then the mother has improved a lot. She still looked weak and didn’t say much while I was there. After talking about NACWOLA, Isma told me a lot about his history and Ugandan history as a whole – lo and behold he wants to teach secondary school history! After chatting with him for a while, I came back to the NACWOLA office as Aaron left to the ICC Conference (soooo jealous!) so I’m stealing his internet.

Photos from Work

Coinciding with the last post I did about work, here are some pictures from yesterday.  Enjoy! :)

It's reading time

Sudden rain!

And the next three are from the micro-finance meeting in the resource room.  There were so many women in there I had to take two pictures and there are still not in frame.

Arielle explaining the prices of the paper products

Emma (top), Sauda (middle), and another woman working on the paper products.

Needless to say, it was nice to see some of the work that NACWOLA is doing in its community of women.  Hopefully I’ll get to work on some projects like this in Lira!

First Workday

Typed on the 1st of June, right before I slept like a rock. And boy is it a long post:

Today was…. phew.  It had some really good times and some really not-good times. Let’s go chronologically, shall we?

I woke up a little later than anticipated, so I didn’t get to type up the blog before this one (it got typed in the afternoon, which delayed posting), but George and I headed out through the same criss-crossing path he took me to on Monday. Emerged, and took the longest and most confusing route I’ve ever taken to anywhere. Got on the same bus as before, but we took it all the way to the taxi park, which is the name of a giant field where all of the taxis are lined up with conductors (the aformentioned toll-men) trying to get you to board. We got off, left the bus park and hiked through the downtown, through a few shopping centers, and emerged at another bus park! Hopped on the right one and on we went until I got to my stop and then got confused as to where to go from there. Ended up taking a boda-boda up to the NACWOLA office where I finally showed up, a little late by my standards but just fine with local-time (which I’m getting used to).

I greeted the few that were there before meeting with Yudaya, the resident mom of the office. She sat me down and talked about what we were going to do for the day and explained the custom of never entering someone’s home empty-handed. Then she said we’d head out after she prepared tea for everyone else.

While she prepared tea (and did whatever else) I had enough time to talk with the girls (who had shown up while Yudaya and I were talking) and connect my computer to the internet. I got to talk to Kim and check my e-mail a little, glance over this blog, and chat with some friends in the office. Then it was time to take tea, so I had sugary milk-water, which looks like I added and poured and mixed things but still resembles something I can drink and like. Then Yudaya took me across the street to a little shop, where I bought some rice and sugar for the family I was visiting, and a lollipop for their kid. We walked a total of like ten steps before we got to the house, and it was the house of one of the girls I had met in passing the day before!

Sauda, a 21-year-old girl who is a NACWOLA child (meaning her mother is a member), welcomed me into her home and hung out with me. Her neice was not happy to see me but when I gave her a lollipop she was content with me being there (child bribery ftw). Sauda got her memory book, which is one of the cool things NACWOLA does, and told me all about her family and her history. The memory book was an idea started by NACWOLA years ago, giving women living with HIV/AIDS a chance to record their family history and personal history and leave it for their children. Sauda began to write her own despite her mother being alive, and she is still working on it. She read to me stories of who her mother is, where her family is from, how her father passed, how she liked school. Everything in the book was really interesting and touching, and it was nice to be welcomed into someone’s home. While there I also met her younger sister, Sharifa, and her mom and aunt both stopped by. After we finished going through the book, we watched some TV (it looked like a Ugandan soap opera followed by a short profile of a Spanish actress and then the news) before heading out. Sauda and I went back to NACWOLA for lunch.

When we got back, we hung out with people for a little while before Yudaya had me meet with Emma, a man a little younger than me. I don’t know what we were supposed to actually talk about, but he was filling out applications for university so I talked to him about that. He’s a go-getter, and he made fun of American schools for not starting until 5 years old (nursery starts at age 3 and is equivalent to our kindergarten). In the course of talking we also got to maybe one of my favorite conversations so far. 1. How can America keep a man from having more than one wife? B. But Akon says he has two wives. How does he live in the US? Ultimately, though, we talked about American versus Ugandan school systems until lunch, which Sauda helped prepare. During lunch I chatted with Danielle, a Penn grad, for a bit before it started POURING outside out of nowhere. Suddenly the room filled with everyone who had been outside and we carried on our conversations while it rained.

The original agenda for the Penn group was to meet with a group of women in a microfinance program. Due to the rain, the meeting came inside so I joined in and listened to a lot of good conversation. The thing the girls came to do was to help put together a program in which women can work to make paper out of papyrus and water hyacinth (both found in Lake Victoria) and then turn the paper into books and picture frames. The women who came today were in a microfinance program in which they have taken out a loan as a group (of 17) and they share the money to keep their businesses going. They talked a lot about the woes of loans and low capital, and shared some stories about their jobs and how microfinance does or doesn’t help. It was exactly the type of thing Tomomi (a professor at ASU) would have been interested in!

The meeting went long, but it was really interesting and fine by me. Afterwards I decided to try to walk to Ggaba Road (where the US Embassy is) to A. register with the embassy and II. see how far it was since boda-bodas are expensive and the bus dropped me off on this road. To address the former, I arrived at the back of the embassy and had to go around – which is a long road – and it was closed. To address the latter, it was pretty far, so I’m going to see if I can find a shorter route or suck it up and get there by boda.

That’s pretty much where the day got more and more annoying. I walked a bit passed the embassy to a gas station with hopes of getting on a bus. Several in a row were full, so I figured I’d walk and flag one down. Still full. After a while I just said screw it and walked, making sure I followed the general mass of taxis. After a long walk, and a few misreads of the buses, I found myself in the thick of downtown. This area was muddier and a little more sketchy, so I kept things close and my eyes open as I hopped between roads and through shopping centers (shopping centers that go through to the next street are called arcades, by the way). Eventually I found my way to the bus park that I should have been getting off at. But then I couldn’t find my way to the other bus park, despite getting (conflicting) directions from multiple passers by. Eventually, I made it and I hopped in, relieved to finally be on a bus and know where I was going.

Got to Wandegeya and found my way to the internet cafe where, imagine, I ran into Morris! We headed up and he scanned some things while I was told that the internet wasn’t working. So we were disparaged. They said it should be up soon, so we grabbed a quick bite to eat before returning…. to a closed internet cafe. Guess it didn’t come back? Morris pointed me towards one and I arrived only to find out that it was full. So I headed to one that I had seen in passing, and it didn’t have wi-fi, was also full, and was more ghetto than the others. I had to wait five minutes before I could hop on Windows 95 (or whatever was before XP) and try to get the internet to work. Glad I got to talk to people a little bit before calling it a very late night and navigating through the dark back home. All in all an okay day that started really cool and ran aground for a bit. I think I put in a lot of kilometers today, whatever those are.

NACWOLA!

Typed on the 1st of June in the afternoon at NACWOLA and late at night at home

Yesterday I started my first day at NACWOLA, kind of. Before that, though, I had an annoying day. Money is dumb.

I woke up and George took me through a different part of town on the way to Morris’ work. Once I got there, Morris was going to take me to exchange my dumb traveler’s checks for Shillings. We didn’t have too much time, so Morris said that we should take a boda-boda. I was nervous, but the tiny motorcycle prevailed and we rode it to the city center looking for a good international bank. Finally made it to Crane Bank and realized that I needed the receipt, no matter what (even though the one I usedin Detroit was fine without one and I know people who have used them in Africa without receipts). So we ran out of time, and I had to go to work but I’d come back later!

Morris took me to NACWOLA and dropped me off. First, the place is totally cute. Most African neighborhoods/places are arranged in little compounds with high fences and a big gate enclosing at least one building and a garden. Behind NACWOLA’s big green gate is the main building with three doors (the door to all of the staff’s main offices, the kitchen, and the resource room where the interns are). There’s a wide dirt area where cars are parked, and there’s a big hut with chairs and benches underneath it for shady relaxing, and on the far side is a big garden.

But enough about looks. I talked to Gloria, the receptionist/multi-tasker, and she told me to wait under the hut and gave me a newspaper to read (Museveni’s ratings are down, wah waah) before Lillian met with me and gave me a brief low-down about what I’ll be doing for the week. After that, she said to read over their pamphlets and meet everyone. So, I met all of the staff, some of the members and family, and most of the Americans. The staff are all really nice, and the members come by to help with basic things and are involved in projects. The Americans include a group of girls from Penn who are helping put together a project, but they’re only here for three weeks total, and a law student from Indiana that is researching international law here and in Kenya. After meeting everyone, we took tea (I ate rolls) and then I hung out with Aaron, the law student, for a while before leaving early to exchange money. But look! It’s picture time!

The main building

The hut!

The resource room, where I spent my free time

The main gate!

And that was a trip. The manager at the bank did not think my signature matched very well, and it took a lot of signatures and a lot of convincing before he would give me my money. But, after a long day at the bank, I headed to Wandegeya and hung out at the internet cafe there for a while, updating all of those lovely blogs you saw and doing other internet duties. I stayed out later than usual, until it got pretty dark in town. Then I headed to get dinner (my first and last meal of the day other than the roll) before heading home and calling it a night. I’m glad to finally be done with the whole money fiasco, and I’m excited to meet more people tomorrow and probably go into the community and meet some more NACWOLA family and children as well as all my new friends.

The Buses of Kampala

Typed on the 20th of May, late-night as well.

So, there are two general modes of transportation here in Kampala. You can ride a boda-boda, which is a little motorcycle with room on the back – faster, maybe a little more dangerous, but more expensive. The alternative, which is what I’ve been using, is a mini-bus or matatu. Think of a regular van with the two seats in the front and three rows behind. It’s stripped down to the metal, and the seats are modified so that there are still regular seats in the middle and on the right, but the seats on the left are fold-able so people can step over them and the front passenger seat goes across the middle where the console would be. Now, take that van and fill it to capacity. There’s a driver and a toll-man (who spends the whole ride telling the people he passes where he’s going to try to pick them up) and 11-14 other people crammed into it. Usually a full van is 4 people across in each row and 2 by the driver, and the toll-man usually just sits on the very edge of his seat since he’s hanging on the sliding door anyways. That’s my primary mode of transportation! It’s pretty inexpensive, but being a muzungu, or white guy, they’ve tried to get more out of me. Going into town with Morris has cost me 500UGX, and coming back today cost me 800, but he said it was because I got them at the stop-off station, but I think it’s because I’m a foreigner. Word’s still out on the real reason.

On my own

Typed on the 30th of May, late night.

Today was a big adventure compared to yesterday. Last night I wandered our neighborhood alone and spend the night alone (George and Morris were both out of town for the evening). Today, Morris tested me by saying goodbye to me in Wandegeya, a big shopping district where I’ve always eaten meals and used the internet. So I was online for about 20 minutes to check everything out (it was nice to get through most of my e-mails, e-mail Kim and my parents, and even update some social networks – I even got to chat with Angela a little!) before I had to find my way home! I made it okay, but since I’m a “white man” they hiked up the rates. Speaking of which, I’m still getting used to the money here.  Ugandan Shillings are roughly 1/2000 of a dollar, but certain things are way cheaper here while others are about the same price as back home.

Before that get-myself-home adventure, Morris took me to Makerere University, the biggest and oldest university in all of East Africa! It was really cool because it is a giant campus that covers several small hills and one big hill, and all of the campus is really pretty.  I took lots of pictures too, so you’ll get a slideshow :)

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Tomorrow is an even bigger adventure. I have to leave early to deal with traffic (it can a loooong time to get into the city center at the wrong time) and get to Morris’ work. He’s going to help me exchange my traveler’s checks (interestingly, even foreign exchange bureaus rarely take them, so I have to go to a Barclay’s or something) and then I will be going to the NACWOLA headquarters in Kampala. I will be putting in a few days there to better understand the organization before moving up to Lira this weekend to start my real internship.